Old Chalk Way
Starting in Axminster and ending at Holme-next-to-the-Sea it follows Roman & pre-Roman roads, flowing along The Ridgeway with its chalk cliffs. The route is steeped in ancient history.
A daunting undertaking for my first ever off road multi-day bikepacking adventure to be sure. Especially considering it has 6,060 m of elevation. And that's without Day Nil. Day Nil? What is this you speak of Graham? Just wait will you. I'll explain in a bit.
The first leg of the journey to the UK was from Rotterdam (Europoort) to Hull (Hull upon Kingston) by ferry. Eric was so kind to bring me by car to the ferry terminal. After showing my tickets and password I boarded by cycling up the ramp and securely stowing my bike against a railing. I try to avoid large crowds so I walked around the ferry for a view, but soon ended up back in my cabin to eat, start writing in my journal and watching some Downton Abbey before I went to sleep. Thankfully I wasn't kept awake by any football enthusiasts like the last time I crossed the channel for my Isle of Skye trip.
In the morning I did some stretches in the cabin that didn't provide ample room to do so. Ate my overnight oats and packed before heading down to the car deck where Skylar was waiting for me. Attached all my bikepacking bags and waited for the go sign. Red. Orange. Green. Hull. Coffee. Cake. Train Tickets. So many train tickets. I found a little park with ducks, geese, gulls, coots, and the like. Birds ground me. A waiting game until the clock told me it was time for several train stops.
You do hear disastrous stories about train travel in the UK but I didn't have that experience at all. And bringing my bike along for the journey wasn't an issue either. Some operators require you to buy a ticket for your bike, some don't, same as you can for seating. I used the Trainline app for all of this. It was sometimes rather crowded and I couldn't sit some of the time but on the whole I was pleasantly surprised. After 5 hours of train travel and several packs of crisps, I finally arrived in Exeter, a uni city. A steep climb and I got a bit lost but somehow I found myself at my first lovely AirBnb hosted by Helen & Roger. AirBnb's in the UK have always been a delight. You're generally supplied with your own kettle, a variety of teas and cakes or biscuits. Shortbread being my favourite.
Meanwhile I got situated and was serenaded by a Wren in the garden. A species of birds that kept me company during my walk to Dinosaur Cafe down the road. Per Helen's recommendation, I went there instead of the gigantic pub I visited first, but which was way too lively for my mindset that night. The former being more to my liking, based on cuisine and atmosphere. It didn't disappoint. Well maybe the coffee, but then again I'm picky in that regard.
Day Nil: Exeter --> Axminster
As instructed by the FAQ on oldchalkway.cc, I felt I should definitely start in Exeter and ride part of the East Devon Trail to Lyme Regis where the actual start of the Old Chalk Way is located. The weather being nice enough to do this and I had legs to go with it. So I named it day Nil or Zero or Null....whatever you like. A starter to the main course that is the Old Chalk Way.
So it was that on Sunday morning. I headed out from Helen's, after claiming the last banana, heading for the mouth of the river Exe. Or at least for the first few hours. I quickly had James for company, a resident of Exeter and his first time on a mountain bike. We spoke about traveling, his plans to climb Snowdonia and all things bike related. Travel companions for roughly 40 k until midday and the lunch stop at the seaside town of Budleigh Salterton. We replenished ourselves with lunch and I stocked up on some things for the road. We said our goodbyes and went our separate ways. As the hills and cliffs came and went in quick but slow succession making my progress slow.
Hike-a-Bike. Breath-needing views after those steep climbs up cliffs. The descents were fun, so much so that I forgot my sunnies. Or rather that I had put them on my helmet. The mind plays tricks when you get low in carbs.My first proper mechanical failure of the trip as I passed a lovely old church on a climb in a valley. My back tire seemed to be losing air, which I reinflated to see if that resolved it, but was just wishful thinking really. At a little pub I investigated further by reinflating again and using a local stream of water to find the source of the issue. Seems that the tire was losing pressure via the rim. Time for milk! Or rather sealant which looks almost like milk, the brand I use looks like orangy milk even and I would perhaps only drink that in a bet for a fair amount of money. I deflated the entire tire and added sealant, reinflated and spinned the wheel to distribute said milk. The pressure held, so off to the pub for crisps and cola it was!
As I was almost at my next AirBnb, I had decided not to detour to the actual start of the OCW at Lyme Regis. No, instead I made a beeline to Sarah's. I was pretty much cooked anyway and in need of food and rest. A long day in the saddle does that. While I sorted myself out, showered and did some yoga to jumpstart my recovery, Sarah helped me to order-in. Indian cuisine. Quite delicious but I most certainly ordered too much really. After cleaning my bike, as a thanks for today's ride, I went for a much needed sleep.
Day One: Axminster --> Blandford Forum
First day on the OCW route and it was to be a hilly one. I entered forested areas where I wouldn't meet any humans for kilometers. Breathe in, birdsong, breathe out, trees creaking, breathe in, oh look a road deer or deer on the road! I could exist in these moments forever.Under the constant noise of tires crunching gravel or splashing mud I continue on. Farmland enclosed by hedgerows is not uncommon now and a reverie takes me back to my ride from Dover to Edinburgh years ago. We should have hedgerows in the polders of The Netherlands. Even if it was just for the birds jumping out of hiding within while alarming their feathery neighbours of my approach. Occasionally I'm greeted by birdsong, most of which I can match with a visual of the bird in my head but Merlin Bird ID comes in handy too when needed.
Climbs are abundant, as much as descents are. How weird. Although the latter being more interesting due to gravel. Topping out at 70 km/h with my body behind my saddle on some bumpy parts, confidence building in regards to bike handling on descents for sure. Nearly out of water, I stopped at an inn in Cerne Abbas where I drank a large cola, coffee and asked for my bottles to be filled. Foodwise I was late for lunch so I had to make due with crisps from the bar and an assortment of other items from the local shop across the road like gummies. Where I also sent my parents, Eric and my uncle a postcard from. They even had my favourite chocolate: Black & Green Dark 85 %. My frame bag stuffed to the brim I continued on again.
For the last part of the day I passed through fields of rapeseed that stained my legs, elbows and bikepacking bags yellow. Surrounded by yellow everywhere it looks beautiful. Passing farms with the largest pigs I've ever seen. Curious to me, not because of the size but pigs outside is something uncommon in The Netherlands. Sad really.
About 5 kilometres outside of Blandford Forum I met my first Warmshowers host on this trip. Tony has been waiting for me just before another nice gravel descent with some inclines through a pinetree forested area which we ride together. At Tony & Georgia's I get my own room which they generally use for indoor training, judging by the trainer setup. Besides a comfy bed and hot shower they also have some snacks (❤️FLAPJACKS❤️) but more importantly protein! After recovery yoga and necessary shower I head downstairs where Tony is making a risotto dinner and Georgia just arrives from work. Throughout dinner and some leisure time in front of the television, we talk about life, the universe and cycling. Georgia & Tony talk about cycling plans to go from the UK to Asia and onward by bike. Inspiring really. As of 27th of December they are in Thailand. Well done you two!
Day Two: Blandford Forum --> Wilton
After breakfast I hit the road again with Tony in tow. Tony is a groundskeeper at a local prep school in Blandford Forum, primarily of trees if I recall correctly, but he cycles to school everyday and thus I adjust my ride slightly to cycle with him for the first few kilometres. After climbing a bit toward school we say farewells and I give my thanks.Onward toward Salisbury, which starts with some offroad bits on the Dorset trailway along the River Stour. Greeted by early morning runners, dog walkers and dogs walking their humans, I transition to asphalt from Manston onward. The weather is slightly kinder today with some wind in the back. Like a little push from a dear friend. A push I wanted to battle the Gold Hill of Shaftesbury. A steep short shit of a climb at 140 meters with average gradient of 21%,maximum gradient 25% and gain of 32 meters. Medieval torture. I'm quite packed with my gravel bike, so it's all good at a slow pace and lowest gear and I stop for lunch at the top.
Soon after Shaftesbury I spotted a deer on the road, bringing a smile to my face, as wildlife always does. After some occasional off road I end up in green hills. The hills also offer more distractions in the form of Skylarks singing their songs. Song of a bird that tries a bit too hard to serenade me but I'm thankful nonetheless. They are a bit uncommon these days in The Netherlands. Pity. The Sun warms my face as I descend into a forest for the remainder of my eastward journey. Lovely bit of gravel really. Not easy, not too hard.
On the outskirts of Salisbury I take in the views before stopping for a coffee and some cake in the city itself. Not great, not terrible either. The sun has found this part of England and I find myself going for short sleeves and without legwarmers for the remainder.Per Tony's recommendation I cycle to Old Sarum, site of the earliest settlement of Salisbury, before I cycle the last bit to my Warmshowers host for the night in Wilton. I have to wait a bit until Nick arrives so I lay down in the grass in front of his house and enjoy the sun a bit longer.
Nick is the friendliest tank commander I've ever met. Welcoming and like every WS-host I've met knows exactly what a cyclist needs are. Shower first, coffee second. We talk in length with each other and I feel quite at home in his army provided housing. While he prepares dinner I ring Iris for a bit of chat. Nice to talk Dutch again after a few days of talking and (eventually) thinking in English. Always a joy talking with her. Blij ei.
Day Three: Wilton --> Wantage
Third day on The OCW and it was to be a long one mentally. Yet very beautiful, albeit muddy conditions. Which makes for slow going while passing through lots of farmland. Serenaded again by Skylarks is a nice thing I won't get used to. That and eating the last flapjack lifts my spirits. As do large stones gathered in circles. Also known as Stonehenge by some. If it wasn't for the busloads of tourists it would take you back to a time without busloads of tourists. However I did get to snap a few photos without people in it. Pro-tip you can walk/ride along the cycle path without payment to view Stonehenge. The rooks gathering here have definitely found a niche market of getting fed shelled peanuts without much work, except posing for photos. Smart!
I continue onward to Salisbury Plain Training Area north of Larkhill. This is a military shooting range so I do have to detour some of the route, as indicated by the red flags hoisted to the top of the flagpole, that some areas are being used for training purposes. That and the noise of actual life fire. Slightly deterred and on high alert I cross the area. Very tough going as the fine loose gravel is energy draining, the road winding its way up and down without any relief insight. I do spot some birders that have spotted the reintroduced Great bustard, which I have the joy to view through borrowed binoculars. I also cycle past military personnel that are part of the training and are quite friendly. It feels like I'm cycling through Camp Toccoa.
My final descent from the plains does give me some pains. As I try to ride out of the track that military vehicles or tractors have created I end up flying a bit, doing a nice judo somersault and stopping my bike from landing on me with my foot. The shoulder I land on will thankfully be my only reminder. Lunch is up next as I see Uffington White Horse in the distance of The Ridgeway I'll be riding on in the last part of the day.
After a somewhat spicy halloumi hamburger with fries, large cola and coffee and top-upped bottles I head for The Ridgeway that will be my route for the next few days. The Ridgeway is famous for being a beautiful hill walk because it predated any Roman road and was used throughout the year as chalk lets water seep through. Hence the name Old Chalk Way. How many people, be it pilgrims or not, have walked here? This I wonder as I climb towards it, which isn't a picnic, but does give me some breathtaking views. Maybe my undertaking is somewhat of a pilgrimage too. On wheels rather than feet.
The last hour on the ridge I get soaked by rain and take note that having a single overshoe isn't a great way to keep both your feet dry. I end up not using the one I do have. My rain jacket however is up to par and with my lights on I cycle the last 20 minutes on the road toward Wantage for my AirBnb stay. I detoured to a local bicycle shop for a little TLC to wash Skylar clean of mud. My focus now is taking a shower, washing my clothes, drying them and my shoes. Obviously food too. The last being sorted by a friendly WS-host (Chris), that can't host but does provide food and companionship. How friendly!
Day Four: Wantage --> High Wycombe
Clothing dried and my body recovered as I set out on the road again. Already more than halfway through my journey. Spirits are a bit damped by grey and dark clouds. More so by the wet conditions I'm riding in today. The mud isn't too bad in most parts, horrible in some. The greenery however is wet and so am I as I brush past on my crushed starlight blueish gravel bike. My mood mirrors the weather, the music I play hits something deep inside me as I let go and have a bit of a cry. Give my emotions room to be without judgement or suppressing them. Feeling relieved & instantly better.
Mood uplifted again by wildlife, birds of prey like buzzards and kites. Perched on a fence post watching me watching them while tearing up a small animal into pieces. In Wallingford at midday I have lunch at the Bean & Brew to lift up spirits a bit more, also to refuel and warmup. I also call my mom & dad.I reach The Ridge. Although hilly in parts, with some descent, most of the climbing is definitely behind me now. Not as crazy as the first few days. I spot a dead half eating Muntjac on one descent. As this is the shortest ride I end up in High Wycombe quite early but the AirBnb host Chris doesn't mind. I set to clean everything again. I focus on food for the rest of the day as I walk to a petrol station for some food for right now and tomorrow morning. Instant oats being my favourite option. After that it's a bit of a longer walk for dinner. Chickenburger!
Day Five: High Wycombe --> Cambridge
It's raining cats and dogs and not stopping anytime soon! All the weather apps in all the land say the same. No overshoes, well like I said earlier, I have just one. Either the right or left, it doesn't really matter. One is none. It sucks, but I have to go. Rain Jacket on, MTB rain pants over my bib shorts to create layers and warmth. I set off for a 106 kilometres ride through rain. I decide to ride only on paved roads after just finishing a short climb and stop at a gate to prepare mentally for the rest. No off-road or Old Chalk Way today. Rather just a plain old road. Asphalt. Paved. With cars and other traffic. 106 kilometers of rain. One hundred and six.
Inside, I want to cry, but I refocus on what I need to do, which is cycling and not thinking about the rain. Soaked gloves, socks, and shoes. Sometimes I ride through a pothole and get rewarded with its contents splashing over and into my shoes. I’m not really cold, though sometimes my feet and hands are. I don’t stop for lunch but refill my bottles at a pub. Unfortunately, there is no fireplace there either, but it’s better to keep moving anyway.
My core stays nice and warm, cozy almost. Mentally it’s tough. Only a handful of photos today, which is a sign of that. I push through; I’m doing something I find hard, but that’s how I know I can do it. I eat on the bike out of my frame bag. Sometimes I push harder and manage to ride faster. Once my chain drops off the chainring during a descent, but it doesn’t bother me much. I resolve the issue and continue on. The kilometers start to feel familiar.A few years ago, I rode on the same road that crossed this railway. Then on Felicia, now on Skylar. Cambridge after 106 kilometers is the rain. 4h53m. Type two fun really.
Anna, my final Airbnb stay for the trip, welcomes me in and is quite impressed. As am I. Proud really of something I achieved. I settle in a familiar routine of shower, washing my clothing, drying my shoes with paper towels that I replace every so often. All this before I hit the local corner shop for protein and brekkie. After some yoga and R&R I head out for a walk to Cambridge itself to grab some supplies for tomorrow on the bike, as I have quite literally eaten my entire supply of snacks. Treat myself to dinner in a local pub, grab a taxi back and don't really remember falling into a deep sleep.
Day Six: Cambridge --> Wighton
As rainy as yesterday was, the opposite is true today. Bibshort without legwarmers, a jersey without arm warmers. The only thing applied is sunscreen. The sun's out. Warm feelings! A day like today is what I saved my brand new Paskal jersey with matching cap and socks for. Fully kitted out I leave Cambridge behind and hit the compacted earth and gravel roads right from the get-go. Old Roman roads are easy to spot here. Straight as straight as a road can be. Although covered with layers upon layers of soil and looking like a single dirt track. I had my first coffee with Cornish pasty at a local shop in Moulton, just shy of Moulton Packhorse Bridge.
The King's Forest just before Thetford is my next highlight. I always love a good forest. Preferably with a twisty single track. This one had wide straight roads, some with quite loose sand but mostly gravel. Not entire cyclocross worthy more like fire roads really. Forests are also quiet serene places with all the bird sounds. A safe and pleasant feeling. In short I love walking or riding through them.
In Thetford I stopped for a quick bite to eat and some coffee of course. After the stop I headed toward the sea, toward the end of the Old Chalk Way. A compass needle would have barely moved. Roman roads again. Certainly from Castle Acre on. A long day on the bike was certainly showing. Not so much in energy levels but the amount of food & drink I had consumed. At kilometre 124 I detoured to a petrol station near Swaffham to refuel. The sun still shining made all the difference as I sipped horrible vending machine coffee, finished a cola and some gummies just as I remounted my bike for the last stretch to the sea.
Meanwhile Catherine had called me on my phone while I was riding the last part of the OCW. Totally missed the call but rang her up to arrange my stay for tonight. My ride just got 29 kilometres longer than expected but oh well. Sometimes Warmshowers don't indicate the correct location on the map. Can be a bit shit.Continuing on from Sedgeford to Ringstead to finally Holme-next-the-Sea. The area shows its history from Romans to Vikings and the Dutch and Flemish. The latter is especially visible in the houses.
In the last kilometres, which were getting hard now, I got the exhilaration of reaching my goal. A sense of determination. Fulfillment. I have had this route on top of my todo-list for quite some time. I crossed the sand hike-a-bike style to the finish at Holme Dunes. A deep sigh of relief & accomplishment. And damn proud about it!
29 kilometers, a rondje Rotte really. My tank was thankfully not emptied yet, I had worked to be in shape and it was paying off. My backlight however didn't agree and died. With dusk setting in soon I texted Catherine with an ETA. Through farmland and side roads, avoiding offroad as much as possible, I was making excellent time on 50 mm tires. Even spotted a Muntjac, this one being very much alive. Certainly not to be a deer in headlights. I finally reached the end of my journey at Catherine's famous cheese farm in Wighton in the dark.
I couldn't have chosen a better stay. I was welcomed before I could dismount my bike by the other Warmshowers guest that was staying and pointed toward the main family house where Catherine is waiting for me with dinner. So much food! I ate and ate until I had my fill. Meanwhile thanking and talking to Catherine about all things. Cycling, farming, cheese, Warmshowers, you name it. It felt like you reached that family member you never speak to but you know you are always welcome. As I struggled to finish my, I've lost count, # plate I shuffled towards the building where I would be sleeping.
I finally had a chance to use my sleeping pad, quilt and inflatable pillow. I didn't get to use any of the other stuff during my trip for camping that I brought, being too cold and wet outside but also wanting proper recovery. So no bivy/tarp setup test, something for next time perhaps. I had a bit of a chat with my roommate before heading off to a well needed sleep.
Hindsight
I started writing this post during and after the Old Chalk Way but as the year progressed I found that my priorities had shifted a tad. Not having time and/or mental room to write about it. As some of you know I suffer from depression and this year I wanted to work on that. I still am. It's much like physical upkeep in that aspect. Making lots of progress thankfully. So during the seasonal holiday break, a period I do not like so much at all, I finally managed to put myself to writing. Creativity is also quite helpful for me as an outlet. So parts of the post have changed a bit and might therefore read differently.
I do vividly remember the day after finishing the Old Chalk Way. Waking up in the attic of the cheese farm and having a great breakfast with lots of cheese of course. Saying goodbye to Catherine. Cycling from the cheese farm in Wighton to the train station in King's Lynn. Roughly 45 kilometres. My bum hurts. Sun in my face again. Enjoying every minute of it. Even the train rides. Texting Nick on the train. Having dinner in Hull near the docks. Spicy pizza! Boarding the ferry and falling asleep quite instantly. Waking up and cycling home.
If you ever want to ride the Old Chalk Way, I'd highly recommend checking current conditions of the route via their Instagram account, even DM'ing them. Or feel free to contact me of course. I wish everyone a great 2025!